When it comes to staying dry and at the right temperature when trekking, there's no use in just multiplying the number of layers: You just need to find the right combination of clothes! The 4-layer rule is a heat management and humidity regulation technique.
USER INSTRUCTIONS FOR QUICK LINKS THAT ARE FITTED ON INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT PROVIDING PROTECTION AGAINST FALLS FROM HEIGHTS (EN 362 : 2004) OR WHICH ARE USED IN MOUNTAINEERING AND ROCK CLIMBING (EN 12275 : 2013) PPE REGULATION 2016/425
As a hiker or trekker, softshell is an important element of your equipment. So much so that its choice is going to be crucial. So just for you, here is the complete guide to choosing the right hiking softshell!
Having two energetic young boys, I was so chuffed when they both became excited about climbing. We visit our local climbing walls, The Mini Climbing Works and Awesome Walls most weeks and the boys soon became confident in getting to the top of the 'big' walls.
Why use chalk?Climbers use magnesium carbonate based chalk to help to reduce moisture and sweat from the hands which can cause slipping. This drying agent can increase friction and improve your grip on indoor holds and rock, especially in warmer temperatures.Which chalk to choose?There are a number of different chalks on the market. The standard being loose powdered chalk which works well on both indoor holds and rock. You can achieve a good covering on your hands easily and can adjust the amount you use as required. The downside to loose chalk is that on application you may lose some into the air. Fill your chalk bag about a third full to reduce the possibility of spillage.This chalk is also available in a block which can be crushed and used as loose chalk. These blocks generally work out cheaper than loose chalk.A great alternative to loose chalk is to use chalk balls. These are a sealed mesh bag filled with chalk. Available in high or low diffusion and by patting the chalk ball on your hands you will achieve a more precise and even covering with less wastage than loose chalk. The downside to chalk balls is they may be harder to re-chalk mid climb, one handed, particularly on long routes. A solution to this is to add loose chalk with your chalk ball in the chalk bag for the best of both worlds.The third option is liquid chalk. This is available with or without an alcohol base. On application, spread the liquid evenly and allow to dry. This chalk tends to last longer on the skin and has much less wastage, dust and mess generally. It can be used with a minimal extra coating of powder chalk for extra grip if necessary. The downside is application from a bottle is difficult one-handed, mid climb plus it can be very drying to the skin due to the alcohol.If you choose to use chalk, always have a soft brush with you too. This will ensure you don’t leave unnecessary and excessive chalk residue on holds at your indoor climbing wall and especially outside on rock. Always try to leave the rock as clean as possible by brushing any marks away.
Paragliding is a fascinating sport. This feeling of freedom, of being alone in the world and of admiring landscapes in a more than comfortable position. Wouldn't that be the life everyone dreams of? In any case, it made us want to share with you our five tips to successfully start paragliding and make the most of it!
I was keen to test out the Simond Rock shoes for rubber stickiness and comfort. I'd seen them in use regularly by climbers around the Climbing Works in Sheffield and for the price (£29.99!) thought they would be a great deal if they were even half-decent. I'm used to doing indoor circuits in Sportiva Miura's, try to climb hard steep things in Scarpa Boostic's and choose my (too small) Five Ten Anasazi's for slopey grit problems. First up I tested them on some well used volumes on the indoor comp wall. My first heel slipped off but after some more precise foot placement I found I could top out a number of problems, including using some good, strong heel hooks. I wasn't as trusting as I could've been just because I wasn't confident of their stickiness but if I went back I'm sure I'd do it again. Some of these problems included tiny, slopey foot holds on the side of volumes on the steeper section and with a bit of intent foot pushing, to my surprise I began to trust them.Foot swapping proved to be a little tricky as they have quite a rounded toe which I'm not used to, but not impossible. I spent the next hour doing the curcuits in them and found them to be as comfortable as slippers!When the next sunny, dryish day came along, I took them out to boulder on some grit. I had wanted to take them up to Mark's Roof to test the heel hooking and performance on steep boulders but the rock was dripping wet so we headed for the Burbage valley suntrap.They were pretty sticky on a number of low-grade slab problems and I trusted them as much as I'd trust my Miura's. I tried a number of heel-toe jams on a few steeper problems and I found them to actually perform quite well.I'm gonna stick by my theory that if you're a good climber you can climb well in anything, because as a 'beginners shoe', I was surprised by their technical abilities. So, to break it down..Comfort: These shoes are not designed to fit too tight. I chose a size bigger than my usual EU climbing shoe size and wore socks inside for extra comfort and warmth. They are well adjustable with the laces, easy to get nice and snug fitting, though the toe box is on the large side for my skinny feet. I could wear them comfortably for hours.Edging: Pretty stiff solid edges on the shoe, held me well on tiny edges.Smearing: Not the softest shoe but enough flexibility to move and grip. Totally flat sole.Heel hooking: Brilliant. Loads of well shaped rubber that gets a good, solid hold.Toe hooking: Basic as the rubber is limited.Rubber stickiness: The soles are made of a resin-rubber, definitely not as sticky as some rubber but stuck to grit better than steep indoor holds - which was possible with determination (good core work-out too!)All together, I think for their price these rock shoes are pretty decent. I'll definitely be using them for indoor circuits and training. I'll take them to Fontainebleau next month and challenge them (and my own skills) with the red & black circuits.I would recommend them to beginner climbers - indoor and out, and as a comfortable training shoe for advanced climbers.
Which climbing shoes are the best is a very personal choice.As all peoples foot shapes are different you need to take into account the arch type, comparative length of toes, width of foot, angle of the heel, what level they climb at, whether the person likes climbing with socks, if someone climbs indoor or outdoor, what type of rock, their preferred climbing style and whether or not they take their shoes off after each route.As you can see when it comes to what climbing shoe is best the answer is whats best for each climber.This is why Simond create a number of different climbing shoes at each level, with different fits and different properties to cater to all types and abilities of climber.