We have a big dream to climb Ak-Su North Peak by it’s North Face. It has a crack, which starts at the bottom of the face and continues all along to the top. The last 400 meters it goes a bit to the right, shifting from the direttissima. But our friends Pavel and Iljas put the direct finish through the overhangings of the final buttress. And our idea was to repeat their route.
We left Moscow at september 1st. It took 3 days to establish our BC at 3500m in front of the wall.
After bad weather period - it was all covered with snow. So we began our acclimatization, climbing and trekking around. 10 days passed quickly, but the wall was still in pure conditions. We didn’t have any other choice, but to give it a go.
So at 12 of september we started climbing and gained quite quickly first hundred meters or so. After 5 pitches of unconsolidated snow and thin ice we finally arrived at the bottom huge rock face. We started first pitch on the wall - and it proves to be in worse conditions, than we expected. All cracks and chimneys were stuck by snow. Cleaning it to establish protection took us endless 4 hours, then dark came and we sat the portaledge. The progress of the day was very short. We were 2 pitches from the huge cornice where the first bivy were planned. After calculating food, speed and number of pitches to overcome - we decided, that conditions are against us - and it will be better to try it next time.
And this is it.
I wanted to say a couple of words about Simond T3 Alpinist tent. We used it for our base camp tent. Actually i never use better than this one. Pure functionality. No anti-mosquito windows (who saw the mosquitos in the mountains!?), huge volume inside, and super functional adjustment kit for pitching. No more knots on the slings - just attaching it to the stone or anker and adjust as you wish. Amazing and simple at one time.
Also I used the simond helmet which is nice and fits well on my square head)))
Simond ropes which we use for climbing, jummaring and rappelling - had good quality and we were happy to have them.
Also we had simond ice screws. We used the shortest ones - good design and quality.
And, carabiners, and belay devices… All proved to be good in using it.