On the Summit of Jannu East
October 17, 2025
The rope team formed by Nicolas Jean (26) and Benjamin Védrines (33) set off again at the end of August to tackle one of the last great challenges of the Himalaya: Jannu East (7,468 m), in the Kangchenjunga region, at the far eastern edge of Nepal. Their goal: to open a new route on the north face, a 2,250-metre vertical wall, in pure alpine style — without oxygen, fixed ropes or external assistance.
Meticulous preparation
In autumn 2024, they had already attempted the climb as a trio but were forced to turn back. This time, it was just the two of them — true to their preferred approach of climbing light and fast. Partners in major alpine ascents, they prepared with intensity and determination to achieve this extreme objective: to climb an unclimbed summit with total commitment.
Since spring 2025, they have accomplished several impressive feats in the Alps. In May, Nicolas and Benjamin completed the full traverse of the Mont Blanc massif on skis via steep slopes in only three days; then in June, they achieved the four faces of Mont Blanc in a single day — 7,900 metres of ascent in just 21 hours.
Since arriving in Nepal, the team has benefited from favourable weather and gradually acclimatised. Notably, on 26 September, they climbed Anidesh Chuli (6,808 m) via the north ridge — a first ascent of a previously virgin peak that provided ideal preparation for their main objective.
Jannu East summit reached — A historic first!
15th of October at 1:40 p.m., after two and a half days of ascent.
With an ideal weather window, all conditions were right to launch the ascent. On Sunday the 12th of October, they began the approach and spent their first night at the foot of the imposing north face. After two further nights on the wall, the rope team reached the summit on Wednesday the 15th of October at 1:40 p.m. (local time).
A world first ascent in pure alpine style — an achievement that opens a new chapter in the history of mountaineering.
Cutting-edge, purpose-built equipment
Beyond physical preparation, equipment plays a crucial role. In high mountains — and especially on an ice wall — their hands become ice axes, their feet become crampons: trust in the gear must be absolute.
Both members of the Simond athlete team, the Chamonix-based brand fully invested in the success of the project through a demanding co-development process with the Simond design office: an ice axe, crampons, a harness, a backpack, and a tent — all ultra-light and specially designed for this expedition.
In the months leading up to departure, prototypes were created, tested and pushed to their limits. The result: lightweight, high-performance, durable equipment, designed with, for and by two elite alpinists.
Upon their return, their feedback will help refine and finalise the design of top-tier technical equipment. By supporting this project from the start, Simond aims to imagine the future of alpinism — and make it accessible to everyone — while sharing the core values of alpine style: autonomy, speed, lightness, simplicity and humility.
