François Marsigny

François Marsigny

François Marsigny, a French alpinist and high-mountain guide, received the Piolet d’Or in 1994 after opening a new ice route on the Col de l’Espérance, Cerro Torre. As a former instructor-guide and head of the mountaineering department at ENSA, he has trained numerous French guides.

Born in

1960

Nationality

🇫🇷 France

Speciality

Mountaineering

With Simond since

2015

Avant-Garde category

The Legacy-owners

1980 : Super Goulotte - Barre des Écrins

He, together with Pierre Gabarrou, opened the Super Goulotte on the south face of the Barre des Écrins, a landmark route in French mountaineering.

1984 : Divine Providence - Grand Pilier d’Angle

He climbed the famous Divine Providence route on the Grand Pilier d’Angle, an iconic line in the Chamonix valley.

1992 : Directissime française - solo ascent of the west face of Les Drus

First solo ascent of la Directissime Française on the west face of Les Drus, showcasing exceptional technical skill and extreme commitment.

François Marsigny was born in 1960 and he is a French alpinist who is renowned for his high-altitude achievements. An architect by trade, he became a high mountain guide in 1989 and joined the Chamonix Guide Company. Since 1998, he has served as an instructor-guide at the École Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme (ENSA) and has led ENSA’s mountaineering department since 2016. He has a passion for mixed and ice climbing and has completed numerous ascents in the Mont Blanc massif as well as taken part in expeditions to Patagonia and the Himalayas. He is also a co-founder of the Piolet d’Or, the prestigious award honoring outstanding mountaineering achievements.