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interview

Interview with François Marsigny,
Simond ambassador and technical advisor:

François has just got back from Cho Oyu and more recently he did his ninth route on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. You only have to open a guidebook or flick through the news pages of a climbing magazine to get an idea of the incredible amount of climbing he does. François Marsigny is a mountain guide, teacher at ENSA [France’s ski and mountaineering academy], fan of the mountains and most of all an enthusiast.

So, François, how was the Polish route on the Grandes Jorasses?

“Well, I went there because I had some info on the conditions; and I wanted to see if I could still hold my axes. I think the expedition to Cho Oyu had tired me out, as I didn’t really feel that great.”

The Jorasses and Cho Oyu, one might say that one is the opposite of the other, no? One’s an extremely steep and technical mountain a few hours walk from your place while the other is one of the biggest and most remote mountains in the world with no particularly technical climbing on it at all!

“I climb for the fun of it, whatever the terrain is like. On Cho Oyu you are in the intoxicating world of high altitude climbs and all that goes with it: travel, trekking, acclimatization. Plus I was with my wife Martine, and sharing my first 8000m peak with her was an intense and extremely rich experience! The Jorasses is a legendary face: steep and austere, extremely technical and easy to get to. And that’s what I love about Chamonix: technical climbs that are nearby. Thierry Renault and I are the ‘old guy team’, we’re just a couple of friends out in the mountains!”

What gear did you have for these two climbs?

“I like to go lightweight without making any sacrifices on safety. I’m always looking for the best compromise possible. On Cho Oyu I had the Titanium 820, a truly unique axe and a tool you can rely on that weighs virtually nothing [320g]! I also had a pair of the strap version Makalu crampons, which don’t weigh very much, are technical and really secure. On the Jorasses I had the Vampire Mixed crampons. I really like their technical versatility; forged front points on mountaineering crampons. They make a great tool for that kind of route: lightweight, technical and precise. In fact I use them ice climbing and dry tooling too… As to axes, I went with the Anaconda with hammer and an Anaconda Light. I put a long leash on the hammer version Anaconda. The former gives me a tool I can’t drop for placing pitons and the latter is ultra light [470g] and really easy to use in the technical sections. Plus, mine were the new versions that are 60g lighter per axe with new style picks.”

You have been working closely with Simond for some years now, can you tell us what the attraction is?

“Simond was just the size and mindset I was looking for. Firstly, they listen to what I have to say and secondly they make highly technical products that, throughout my career, have allowed me to progress and take on ever more ambitious projects. Simond has always been at the forefront of innovation while still listening to climbers. For me, listening is the basis for any kind of relationship.”

You have been climbing for over 30 years now and one could say that you are one of the mountaineering greats. You’ve climbed all over the world and have received numerous awards for your climbs, you’re a member of the Chamonix Guides’ Company, a teacher at ENSA and you must have one of the longest lists of first ascents to your name… What makes you carry on climbing?

“My most profound motivation has changed over the 30 years, but what has stayed with me since the beginning is the pleasure I get out of climbing and being in the mountains.”

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